Day 1 Part 2: Battered Bastards of Bastogne and AAC

Maastricht, Netherlands
1930
Drinking: Some delicious beer that I cannot say the name of...and the spelling is even harder!!


When I planned this trip it was my intention to go to Bastogne last. The "Battle of the Bulge" is a part of the world wars that I know quite a bit about. It is also one of the most well documented in contemporary history as well as non-fiction--think Band of Brothers. However I am glad I went there first. The overwhelming amount of artifacts that I came in contact with in the town, the museum, and on the battlefield was enough to send me home happy right now--NOT going to happen though, sorry Julie!!

While driving through the town of Bastogne, it was important to acknowledge the fantastic blend of salvaged historic buildings and some mid-century rebuilds that awkwardly filled the street wall, I took a walk down the main commercial street, the Rue due Sablon and enjoyed a nice warm coffee on on the below-freezing day. There is a huge mix of national flags everywhere. Belgian, British, and American flags are all over the town. It is a refreshing to know that 72 years later, the people are still proud of the contributions of their allies to save their town. With this being the anniversary month of the campaign, there were quite a few events going on to acknowledge the anniversary.

BASTOGNE WAR MUSEUM & MEMORIAL
Located on a hillside outside Bastogne that was very key terrain during the Battle of the Bulge, the Bastogne War Museum was as scenic as it was informative. I had intended to skip the museum and just check out the memorial. However if you know anything about me--I always have time for a good museum. The museum intertwines the stories of 4 real people and their war experiences as a walking narrative: A school teacher from Bastogne, a 12 year old boy, an American Soldier, and a German Officer. I always get a kick of how they put a southern accent on Americans in European war museums, as if we all talk with that same accent.

I spent over three hours in the museum and could have spent three more. They had copious amounts of battlefield memorabilia. Some of it was restored, but none of it was replica. It was as authentic as it could be. The museum also did a fantastic job with their theater productions. There are 3 theaters that break up the strenuous walk through a museum of it's size. The theaters set a tone with their design that help you feel like you are in the scene being portrayed on the set. You were not just watching a film, but actually being surrounded with the setting depicted in the videos.

The memorial was as grand as I had expected, but almost impossible to photograph from the ground. It is laid out in an American-style 5-point star. At the top are the names of all 50 American States (even though there were only 48 at the time of the war) and listed on the columns are units that fought in the Battle of the Bulge. This memorial was unique in that you could climb a spiral staircase to walk on top of the memorial. At the top were views of Bastogne and the huge battle space as well as maps to help you orient yourself to the battlefields introduced inside the museum. Finally, below the monument is a grotto. Inside there are three ossuaries--representing the 3 major religious groups in the United States at the time of the battle: Judaism, Catholicism, and Protestantism. I thought it was neat that the grotto was added to meet the request of mothers of the fallen who requested to be able to pray for their fallen sons.

One part of the visit that I thought was very interesting was the school children playing on and around the monument. In America this would be a quick way to get escorted off the grounds. However, there was something about this that felt different to me. Inside the museum the children were engaged with the exhibits and learning about the battles fought in and around their home (a teacher told me they were 7th graders in Bastogne). Outside they were free spirited and full of energy and laughter. That's how it should be. The war was fought so that children could play and enjoy themselves freely. I am glad that the somber environment inside did not muddle their spirits outside.

101st AIRBORNE MEMORIAL AND FOXHOLES
The next stop I made near Bastogne was outside the town of Foy, just 3 KM from Bastogne. It was made famous in the Band of Brothers episode "The Breaking Point." There is a beautiful memorial with a stone acknowledging those who paid for it's construction and continued maintenance. Among the notable contributors is actor Tom Hanks and Jeep. The memorial is located near the Bois de la Pax (Wood of Peace). When viewed from above the wooded area resembles the UNICEF logo, symbolic of peace and hope.

101st Airborne Memorial near Bois Jacques, Foy, Belgium.

Down the way from the 101st Memorial is the Bois Jacques (Jack Woods). This was the location of Easy Company during the Battle of the Bulge, made famous in Band of Brothers. To this day, foxholes are still visible, even after 72 years of being beaten by the weather. It was a very surreal feeling being the only person in this woodline, during the same time of year and on a similarly cold day as these Soldiers experienced.

People are free to walk around the area. I am always amazed at how respectful people are to historic sites in Europe. Not once did I notice trash strewn around the woods or graffiti or carvings on trees. Instead I saw flowers placed in foxholes, or perhaps a military patch nailed to a tree. I will note that not all of these trees are period original. That variety of tree tends to fall after about 50 years and replace itself. However the foxholes, and many of the trees are very original. I walked a large area for about an hour and counted at least 70 foxholes with many more that were filled in either deliberately or through natural erosion.

ARDENNES AMERICAN CEMETERY

S SGT BLIVEN eard the Soldiers Medal.
This is one of the most rare awards in the Military.
It is awarded for non-combat heroism.

American Military Cemeteries always cut to the core of me. When I walk into an American cemetery on foreign soil I feel a sense of pride. I'm always proud to be American. But when I walk into one of these places I say to myself "THESE are real heroes." I will never in a million years be the badass Soldier that these great people are. What they endured and their final experience on earth puts them in an honored place among American "heroes."

Ardennes was even more unique because I was the only person there at the time of my visit. It is not exactly in the middle of nowhere, but it is not near any major tourist attractions. Therefore it often gets overlooked compared to American Cemeteries like Normandy or Luxembourg. However, that makes it no less important. Being the only person there on a weekday afternoon was surreal. It was as quiet and peaceful as it should be. The patriotism was overflowing in me, as I read the names and homes off of hundreds of crosses and stars. I walked as much of the cemetery as I could because I felt a certain level of responsibility to make sure each one of those graves was visited during this holiday season. There were about a dozen graves recently decorated with flowers. Far too few in my opinion. I decided that starting tomorrow I will add flowers to a single grave at each cemetery the rest of the way, as a way to acknowledge my appreciation for the sacrifice of the fallen.

"Unkown" graves are always the most
emotional. Somewhere is a family who
does not know that their loved one rests in peace. 

 AAC is the resting place of 5,323 American Soldiers from World War II. Additionally, the names of 462 Soldiers missing in action are listed on tablets around the center chapel. At the front of the burial area is a large Chapel/Monument. The figures on the front represent Liberty, Justice, and Truth. On the opposite side, facing the burial area is the insignia of several units representing the fallen.

Every ABMC Cemetery is well maintained. However this one stuck out to me for some reason. I'm not sure why, but I'm glad it did. Going forward on this journey, the American Battle Monuments Commission will play a big role in shaping my experience. Tomorrow I will have the pleasure to meet with the superintendent of one of the ABMC cemeteries in Belgium. I hope that opens me up to a little more insight into some of the wonderful heroes that are burried in the hallowed grounds.

Ardennes American Cemetery, resting place of 5,323 and honoring 462 MIA.

PS: I am taking far too many photos to share here. They will all be on my Facebook feed in the next week...if you are so lucky to be my friend. If you are not, message me here and I will forward the photos to you.